Adventures in Shymkent and Taraz

It certainly has been a busy week over here in Kazakhstan. There hasn't been much time to sit and write more than a hurried note now and again, let alone write something longer. Now that I'm back in Shymkent there really has been no free time. When I'm not working, there is time to be spent with friends here. There is a great Turkish restaurant not far from our hotel, though, that has free wireless internet--I have tried to spend a little bit of time here each day just catching up on a few things.

Our trip from Almaty was rather adventurous. It began with our driver not appearing at the appointed time. Several hours and multiple phone calls later, we finally were able to hire a few new vehicles. Of course, they could not meet us until 5pm--and it was at least 6-8 hours to Taraz (our next destination). Our meetings in Taraz did not go particularly well-while we were able to meet with the director of one of the transportation agencies, he was clearly a political appointee who did not know much about the operations of his facility. Perhaps the sign that stated he worked from 4-6pm Monday-Friday should have been a hint! Neverless, we were able to get some good information in Taraz--despite arousing the interest of the local police who wanted to know what we were doing and why we were there. They followed us for a few days, most likely making notes on our activities. If they just waited a few days, they would have been able to see our interview in the local paper--which stated exactly what we were doing and why.

Overall, though, Taraz was a very nice (small) city. Wide boulevards, lots of trees, and people who were very friendly. We were there for about 3 days, and then left for Shymkent. The drive was absolutely beautiful--some of the best landscapes to be seen in Kazakhstan, with the mountains serving as a backdrop. We were met at our hotel by a dear friend from Uzbekistan who works here in Shymkent. Within 30 minutes of arrival, both Bahodir and my friend Ira (from Shymkent) were there, and we had a reunion of sorts. Bahodir had to return to Tashkent that afternoon, so we drove him to the border. Along the way, we made a slight detour and met a colleague of his who invited us to tea. Did I say tea? I meant vodka. And more vodka. And then another shot or two. Oh, dear. There were 8 of us at the table--which meant at least 8 toasts and shots. And that was before the mayor and a few others showed up. I didn't feel so well the next day--but maybe that was from the beshbarmak (broad flat noodles w/salted horse sausage on top). Who knows.

It has been rather fun being back in Shymkent, seeing people I know or who remember me from last year. In Ramstore yesterday (a Turkish supermarket chain), the cashier and I stopped to have a long chat about how things have been, how my friends are doing, and when my friend Jerry is coming back (she sends her greetings, Jer and Cruz!) This morning we went to Sayram, which is an Uzbek town not far from Shymkent. It was great to explore the bazaar and visit some of the historic sights. Of course, I could not leave the bazaar without some small purchases--in this case, yet another tea service. This one is different, though--it is the Uzbek national design of a dark blue background and bolls of white cotton. How could I resist? It was only $12 for the entire service! Now I just have to get the darned thing back to the US.

Tomorrow we go to Turkistan, to see a mausoleum there. We're leaving early to miss the worst of the heat--it has been rather warm here, and no one wants to get even more sunburnt. I'm very thankful that I've brought lots of sunscreen.

How to tell you're back in Kazakhstan

There have been several experiences in the last few days that confirm to me that I am back in Kazakhstan.

These experiences began with the required trip to the banya. Once I got there, I found out that the pool was closed for 'remont' (repairs), so only the sauna was open. That was okay--I was really there for the massage. They have wonderful face and head massages there--but I don't recommend the regular massage--it will leave you feeling bruised and beaten up for days afterwards. I arranged for my treatments from the devyushka (literally, girl--but also means any woman working in a particular place), and gave her my name. Her response? "Christina! We haven't seen you in so long! Where have you been?" Then, as I waited for my facial, I made the mistake of putting my feet on the low table in front of my chair. Another devyushka walked by and snarled "Nelzya!"--literally, it is forbidden! It was good to be back.

Yesterday was another set of experiences--having to yell at the waitress in the restaurant 4 times in order to get a pot of tea, and another 2 times for a juice glass. She was busy putting her makeup on and didn't have time. What a great way to start the day. (I should note that in many areas of Kazakhstan, confrontation can be a way of life). That evening, we went to a restaurant not far from our hotel. Ordering for 7 people was a bit of a nightmare, and we didn't know what would show up or when. There were things we didn't order, and then some of the things we did order took over an hour to appear. When it was time to pay, I requested a copy of the bill for accounting purposes. The conversation went as following:

Me: We need a copy of the bill, please.
Waitress: Why? (glaring at me)
Me: We need a copy of the bill.
Waitress: Why? (again glaring)
Me: It is required (abyazatilna)
Waitress: Okay

Simply needing a copy is not enough. It has to be required.

I love this country! You never know what to expect, and it always exceeds any expectations you might have. It's good to be back.

Back in Kazakhstan

Who would have thought that just a few short months after leaving Kazakhstan, I would be back here? I certainly did not think so! But here I am in Taraz (southern Kazakhstan), where I will be for the next few days before heading to Shymkent.

It has certainly been an eventful trip this far. It began with an ATM retaining the card of one of the professors with whom I am working--we had to go across the city and make multiple phone calls to get it back. Then, the driver who was to have taken my research group to Taraz yesterday never showed up. Apparently, he had a better deal. We had to go to plan B--but there was no plan B. Eventually it all worked out and we arrived here at 4am. The alternate plans involved the president of the Central Asian Geographical Society arriving at our hotel to assist us, which included a lengthy conversation in which my Russian skills were put to the test. I have certainly expanded my vocabulary on this trip!

There will be more from the road, as I have time. For now, I'll just add a picture of my "Russian family", with whom I had a wonderful dinner on Thursday. It was wonderful to see them again, and I'm looking forward to meeting up again when I return to Almaty.

Acclimating to the culture

Close to a year ago, I wrote about my experience going to the bazaar to buy a new pair of jeans. At the time, it was a rather traumatic (albeit amusing) event. It was the first time I had been faced with trying on clothing in such a public environment, since there are no changing rooms over here. Instead, the merchant might hold up a sheet to block you from view of others in the bazaar. Then again, the merchant might not offer such an amenity.

The first time I bought a pair of jeans, I bought the first pair that I tried on. Fortunately, I liked them—because I did not want to go through that experience for quite some time! Today, I realized that the situation has changed significantly. I will soon be leaving Shymkent to travel around the country and do some fieldwork, and needed to find an outfit or two that were both professional in appearance and that would travel well. It is always challenging to find something appropriate at the bazaar, particularly since many of the outfits that are suitable for Kazakhstan are a bit over-the-top for the US. At home, most of the outfits that would be considered everyday wear in Kazakhstan would be worn only for special occasions—such as holiday parties and weddings.

It can certainly be a challenge to find appropriate dresses in Kazakhstan—and when you do, it is yet another challenge to ascertain whether the merchant has your size. There is nothing quite like being told repeatedly that “we don’t carry large sizes” or “that wouldn’t fit you/look good on you”! You quickly have to learn that these comments are not meant to be insulting—most (younger) Kazakh women have very slender builds and the majority of merchants carry the more common sizes.

When I eventually found some dresses that I liked and that appeared to be my size (you can’t tell by looking at the tag—I have tops that are 4X and others that are XS. Seriously!), I realized that none of the merchants offered the amenity of a sheet to change behind. Instead, trying on an outfit entails taking off your shirt and pulling the dress over your head—while groups of young teenaged boys observe. Any misplaced sense of modesty can result in buying an outfit that you later realize doesn’t fit properly or look that great when worn. On the bright side, it is easy to tell whether a dress looks good—and you don’t even need to look in the mirror!

I guess I have become accustomed to life in Kazakhstan—because I still need to buy one additional dress and will have no problem going back to the bazaar in a few days to see what else I can find. That is something I never would have done a year ago!

Weddings in Kazakhstan-pictures

Yesterday, while walking through Panfilov Park in Almaty (in the center of town), I was absolutely delighted to encounter one of the most entertaining sights I have yet seen in Kazakhstan. There were at least a dozen wedding parties having pictures taken at the Glory Memorial in the park--cars were lined up at the entrance, decorated with flowers and ribbons. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to get a very clear picture of the cars--and I really wanted to get a picture of the car with the 2-foot tall bride barbie tied to the hood. It was klasna, to say the least!

In the park, wedding parties were vying for position to have their pictures taken. At one point, I counted at least 12 groups, but there were likely more (see how many you can count in the first picture). These pictures fail to capture the full effect--but hopefully will give an idea of what I was writing about in an earlier post. I'll be back in Almaty in a few weeks to do some interviews for one of the new Fulbright programs--hopefully I'll have some time to go to the park and take some more pictures.

Thoughts on a year in Kazakhstan

In a few hours, I will be heading to the train station to travel once again to Almaty. As I was packing up a few things this morning, it occurred to me that by now going to Almaty has become almost routine. I know exactly what I will need for the train (travel mug, tea, noodle bowl--the local equivalent of a cup-of-soup--purel, sleep mask, earplugs, and a banana and yogurt drink for breakfast). The only real similarity between a year ago and now was the knowledge that it would take 15+ hours for the trip--and that doesn't seem very long anymore!

A year ago, when I thought of travel to Almaty, it was with a sense of excitement as well as trepidation. I was to be away from home and halfway around the world for over year. I didn't know what to pack and what I might find when I arrived. All I knew was that the embassy was arranging to have me met at the airport when my plane landed in the early hours of the morning and bring me to a hotel. When I eventually got to the hotel, I recall how happy I was that there was a functioning shower WITH hot water (I had been warned that this might not be the case). And then I had to figure out the phone to call home--not something you want to do when severely sleep deprived! It took about 30 minutes to make the call, which lasted for about 30 seconds, and then I fell asleep until late afternoon.

When I eventually woke up, I decided to brave this new exciting and, yes, frightening city. I recall walking around the block, looking at all of the stores and signs in Russian and wondering if and when it wouldn't feel so strange. There were so many things to get used to--trees that were all painted white at the base, cars everywhere, women who were dressed MUCH less conservatively than I expected, strange smells, and different languages everywhere. Hearing Kazakh for the first time was fascinating--the cadence and tone is so different from Russian.

I remember feeling incredibly adventurous after this brief trek out from the safety of my hotel. Those first few days, everything felt adventurous. Until I fell ill, that is! By then I was staying with another Fulbrighter (Sarah, whom I had met briefly at orientation and who is by now a great friend), and all I wanted to do was stay in bed and sleep. Within a week, I was settled in at my own apartment. Imagine my surprise when I started exploring the neighborhood and realized that I was less than a block away from my original hotel! What had seemed so foreign and frightening at first quickly became my home.

Today, when I leave for Almaty, it is with entirely different expectations. I will arrive by train--and fully expect to be hassled by the train conductor either because 1) I am foreign and a woman traveling alone or 2)someone without a ticket has paid him and he wants me to give up my lower berth for this individual. Because being foreign and a woman, clearly I will agree. Oddly enough, this knowledge does not bother me. It is just how things are here--but I also know that I don't have to go along with it! I will keep my lower berth, read my book, have some tea, and relax as much as possible.

My arrival in Almaty will also be different from last summer. This time, I will haggle with a few taxi drivers who will probably try to charge me too much to drive from the Vokzal (train station) to my old apartment. The apartment is about 5 minutes away, but the drivers will tell me that it is very far, gas is expensive, and that their children need bread. To which I will reply that it is not very far, 300 tenge is the going rate, and that if they don't drive their cars at all they won't have any money so their children won't eat. We'll probably agree on a price of 400 tenge, and everyone will be happy (1USD= 120 tenge).

I will spend a little bit of time with Lyudmilla (my friend/former landlady) when I get into the city. I haven't had a chance to sit and talk with her for a while, so it will be nice to catch up. She took her kids to Moscow this summer-I'm looking forward to hearing about the trip. Then it will be off to the shopping areas to pick up a few things that can't easily be found in Shymkent, and then to the embassy. I have a little bit of work to do there, printing out some paperwork for Fulbright-related issues, and then I will go to the Altyn-Kargaly sanatorium just outside of town for the night. On Friday, I will serve as a panelist for the closing debate of the American Studies Summer School run by the embassy. It is a great chance to interact with students and to encourage them to further their education. I really love these opportunities!

Of course, soon after the debate ends, I will have to leave for the Vokzal to travel back to Shymkent by the night train. Almaty is no longer an exotic destination--but has become someplace that I go for a brief trip or to work. I suppose that means that Kazakhstan has also become home.

Weddings...Kazakh style!

After a late night yesterday, staying up well after midnight to watch the Olympic opening ceremonies live on EuroSport, it has taken a while to get into work mode today. It was well worth it, though, if only to hear the comments that the Russian announcers were making about all of the different teams as they entered the stadium. My personal favorite was the commentary on Italy's tough immigration policies! Hmmm...how exactly does that relate to the Olympics?

By the time I finally woke up this morning, it was too late to go for my usual walk around Shymkent. Once the temperature hits 100F, I usually stay inside and enjoy the air conditioning until the sun starts to go down. At least tomorrow we are expecting some cold weather--the predicted high temperature is only 86F!! People will be out in sweaters, I am sure. Much of the day has been spent inside, working on the latest section of my UNESCO report--untangling governmental expenditures on education. After several hours of going over the latest figures from the Ministry of Finance, I was more than ready for a break and decided to treat myself to a new movie from the local video store. As I probably have mentioned, my life here really is not THAT exciting!

Leaving the video store, I was suddenly reminded that today is Saturday. In Kazakhstan, particularly in the warmer months, that can only mean one thing--wedding parties are everywhere. These are not wedding parties like you seen in the United States, either. This is Kazakhstan, where there is no such thing as being over-the-top or tacky. In fact, there is not even a word for 'tacky'--although it has been suggested that possibly 'klasna' (classy) could be an acceptable substitute.

Exciting the video store (which is in a new shopping center that closely resembles an American mall), I was nearly run over by 2 wedding parties that were entering the building to take pictures. Lest you start wondering why on earth a wedding party would want pictures taken in a mall, I should explain something about weddings in this part of the world. After getting married in the local municipal wedding office, the bride and groom embark upon a tour of the city, having their picture taken in front of any building or monument that might be of the slightest significance. The entire wedding party (usually about 15-20 people) accompany them, and they all travel in cars that are decorated with flowers and streamers. You can usually tell the car with the bride and groom by the huge gold interlocked wedding rings attached to either the hood or the roof of the vehicle. The cars race down the roads, honking their horns to inform everyone else that they have the right of way.

Arriving at the desired location, the wedding party crowds around and ensures that they have the best possible access for pictures. If it is an expensive wedding, there will also be someone videoing the entire process. It does not matter if there are other people visiting that particular monument or park...the wedding party essentially pushes them out of the way (this has happened to me on more than one occasion.) The bride will usually then strike her best supermodel pose, resplendant in her sparkling white gown. Yes, I said sparkling. Without exception, the dresses are a brilliant white with either shimmering threads or some sort of beading/sequins. There is one basic style, too--a fitted bodice with a full skirt that strangely never moves or changes shape. And the more ruffles and sparkles, the better! Klasna.

On Saturdays in the summer, there can often be two or three wedding parties having pictures taken at the same time in the more popular locations. I don't know how many sites the wedding parties will travel to, not having bothered to follow them around the city--but I suspect that there are at least 5 or 6 different locations. Eventually, the wedding party will arrive at a reception hall--where the toasts are lengthy and the vodka flows liberally. If the bride is the daughter of an important official, there will also be 'gifts' presented to her father. A friend has told me that at a recent wedding, these gifts were a minimum of $500 per person--and there can be hundreds of people at the reception. Yikes!

So, after a day spent looking at budgetary figures, it was highly amusing to see two of these bridal parties entering into MegaCenter (the location of the videostore), jostling each other to see who would have the better positioning for pictures--or to see who would have their pictures taken first. I should have waited to see what they used as the background--the escalator (a novelty over here) or the ice-skating rink. Maybe next Saturday I'll spend some time at the mall to see what people prefer...

(I should note that I would have taken some pictures myself, but cameras are actually not allowed in MegaCenter. Wedding parties seem to be exempt from this rule.)