Many of my days are spent at the Ablai Khan University of World Languages and International Relations (quite a mouthful!!). Three days a week, I have individual Russian language classes with an instructor whose English is severely limited. It’s great—since it eliminates the ability to ask a question in English and forces me to communicate almost exclusively in Russian. She’s determined to get rid of my accent—but I fear she’s fighting a losing cause. But since I’m usually one language behind with my accents (my Russian has a German accent), when I learn Kazakh I will probably speak with a Russian accent. I’m so thankful that I am able to participate in the critical language training program, though—I couldn’t imagine not having the additional language training before attempting to conduct interviews. The research would be impossible.
When I’m not studying or in Russian class, I’m also teaching two separate courses for the university. Originally, I was to teach Geopolitics three times a week (the same lecture each time). It was pretty straightforward, and something that I can easily do. However, another department was upset because the “Fulbright PhD Candidate” was being monopolized by the department of international relations (listening to some of these conversations, you sometimes feel like a bit of a commodity—and a rare one, at that!). So…the end result was that I had less than 24 hours to prepare my new course on American Studies that I teach to 2 sections of students. Am I ever glad that I taught the Geography of the US and Canada last summer! I have all of my course notes with me, and I’m just teaching the exact same class again. As much as I would love to revise the course, I simply don’t have time to do so and to simultaneously focus on my Russian—which is my priority, and what I’m being paid to do at the moment. I don’t mind helping out at all, and I enjoy the teaching—but it’s important to remember what my priorities are.
Wednesday, September 19, 2007
Housecleaning-don't laugh, Dad!!
House cleaning is quite an experience, I’ve found. There is an inordinate amount of dust around here (although not as bad as just outside of town), yet there are few vacuum cleaners. Instead, there is the birch-twig broom that is used to sweep carpets and floors. I made the mistake of picking up my hall carpet (a rather long carpet runner) to take it to the balcony to shake out. Imagine my surprise when immediately fine dust particles began to rain down all over the hallway—filling the air with a dark cloud and seeping into the smallest crevices imaginable. The aforementioned birch broom does little to sweep up this type of dust. Instead, it was me, a rag, and a bucket of water that I used to swab down the floors and walls. Every 2 minutes, the water would be black and have to be emptied—and then the floor had to be washed two or three times before it was truly clean.
Fortunately, housecleaning usually doesn’t take too long. The same can’t be said for laundry, though. I am lucky to have a washing machine here in the apartment, since there are no Laundromats to be found anywhere. Without a washing machine, laundry would need to be done in the bathtub. Of course, that’s not far from my reality even with the washing machine—which more accurately should be called an agitator. To do laundry, I first place a wooden shelf across the bathtub, and then sit the machine (which looks like a large box) on the shelf. After checking to ensure that the hose is attached underneath the machine, I put a few clothes into the agitator and add some laundry soap. Next, I turn on the faucet and fill the machine with as much water as necessary. Finally, I turn it on and wait about 10 minutes for it to finish. The second stage requires draining the water out of the agitator into buckets, and pouring the water into the toilet to flush away (so the lint doesn’t block the tub drain). Then, I add more water and continue the process until the water is relatively clean (about 4-5 cycles). The clothes then come out of the agitator and are rinsed in the bathtub before being hung to dry on the clotheslines on the balcony (there are no dryers in Almaty). It’s quite a process—but if the clothes are hung out before 11am, they will be dry by mid-afternoon. The sun is pretty strong around here, so it doesn’t take too long—you just need to take the clothes in quickly, before they are faded by the sun or get full of dust.
Fortunately, housecleaning usually doesn’t take too long. The same can’t be said for laundry, though. I am lucky to have a washing machine here in the apartment, since there are no Laundromats to be found anywhere. Without a washing machine, laundry would need to be done in the bathtub. Of course, that’s not far from my reality even with the washing machine—which more accurately should be called an agitator. To do laundry, I first place a wooden shelf across the bathtub, and then sit the machine (which looks like a large box) on the shelf. After checking to ensure that the hose is attached underneath the machine, I put a few clothes into the agitator and add some laundry soap. Next, I turn on the faucet and fill the machine with as much water as necessary. Finally, I turn it on and wait about 10 minutes for it to finish. The second stage requires draining the water out of the agitator into buckets, and pouring the water into the toilet to flush away (so the lint doesn’t block the tub drain). Then, I add more water and continue the process until the water is relatively clean (about 4-5 cycles). The clothes then come out of the agitator and are rinsed in the bathtub before being hung to dry on the clotheslines on the balcony (there are no dryers in Almaty). It’s quite a process—but if the clothes are hung out before 11am, they will be dry by mid-afternoon. The sun is pretty strong around here, so it doesn’t take too long—you just need to take the clothes in quickly, before they are faded by the sun or get full of dust.
Settling In
After taking the last ten days to settle into my new apartment and something approximating a routine, I now have an opportunity to sit down and write about some of my latest adventures in Almaty. It’s nice to have a free evening—one in which I’m not too exhausted from teaching, walking around the city, and hours spent trying to improve my Russian. So now it’s time to listen to some music (The Beatles—a nice break from all of the techno-pop you hear on the radio over here), enjoy a glass of “Old Tblisi” red (for those of you unfamiliar with the post-Soviet states, Tblisi is the capital of Georgia—a country known for its good wines), and catch up on writing.
I’ve been incredibly fortunate with my apartment here in Almaty. Housing prices are incredibly expensive—it’s not unheard of for an apartment to rent for $2000-$3000 per month, which the Fulbright stipend simply wouldn’t cover. However, our embassy contact arranged for an apartment near the old city center that has a very modest rent. Her friend owns the apartment, and lives next door with her family. Surprisingly for the city, my apartment is very private—it overlooks a tree-filled courtyard away from the street. Even better, the building has a southern exposure. Around here, that means only one thing—it faces the Tien Shan mountains that rise up just south of the city. My apartment is on the 4th (and top) floor, and each morning I wake up to a beautiful view of the mountains. From a certain angle, one peak in particular looks just like the Alpspitze in Garmisch—it’s strangely comforting.
The apartment is typical of Soviet-era apartments (although much nicer than the huge Soviet style apartment buildings on the edges of the city). It’s only about 450 square feet, with a small bathroom (complete with toilet tucked away in a room smaller than a broom closet), kitchen, and bedroom/living room combination. My landlords ensured that I had the most essential item before I moved in—they bought me a new tea kettle, so that I can sit in the kitchen and drink tea all evening long. The kitchen is rather standard—if a little on the larger size. It had most of the necessary equipment—pots, pans, plates, etc. I have had to go out and buy a few things, though. A few good knives, cutting boards, and mixing spoons make all the difference in the world. Monday, I was able to add the one essential that, as an American, I found incredibly difficult to live without. Yes, I was able to find a set of actual drinking glasses that weren’t smaller than juice tumblers. Before that, I only had a set of tea mugs. I was so thrilled that I didn’t mind having to walk 4 miles back to my house—in 3-inch heels. But more on that in another post.
Back to my apartment…the bedroom/living room is very Russian in character—rich carpets hanging on the walls, a large schrank occupying one entire wall and filled with items of importance. And books. Wonderful, wonderful books. Agatha Christie, Joyce Carol Oates, Truman Capote, Victoria Holt (yes, that author of the Victorian-era tripe, that I loved so much in 7th grade before developing at least some critical faculties). There are shelves and shelves of books, both in Russian and English. Lyudmila (my landlady) has shown me the bookshelves in her apartment and invited me to go over to get books any time I want. My first night here, I sat listening to the rain (the only rain we’ve had since I’ve been here), and reading an Agatha Christie. Absolute bliss. So if you think of me over here in Almaty, picture me enjoying a cup of tea in the evening, a wonderful pastry from one of the many bakeries, and reading a good book on my balcony—occasionally looking up at the mountains and thinking of how fortunate I am to be able to enjoy these simple things.
I’ve been incredibly fortunate with my apartment here in Almaty. Housing prices are incredibly expensive—it’s not unheard of for an apartment to rent for $2000-$3000 per month, which the Fulbright stipend simply wouldn’t cover. However, our embassy contact arranged for an apartment near the old city center that has a very modest rent. Her friend owns the apartment, and lives next door with her family. Surprisingly for the city, my apartment is very private—it overlooks a tree-filled courtyard away from the street. Even better, the building has a southern exposure. Around here, that means only one thing—it faces the Tien Shan mountains that rise up just south of the city. My apartment is on the 4th (and top) floor, and each morning I wake up to a beautiful view of the mountains. From a certain angle, one peak in particular looks just like the Alpspitze in Garmisch—it’s strangely comforting.
The apartment is typical of Soviet-era apartments (although much nicer than the huge Soviet style apartment buildings on the edges of the city). It’s only about 450 square feet, with a small bathroom (complete with toilet tucked away in a room smaller than a broom closet), kitchen, and bedroom/living room combination. My landlords ensured that I had the most essential item before I moved in—they bought me a new tea kettle, so that I can sit in the kitchen and drink tea all evening long. The kitchen is rather standard—if a little on the larger size. It had most of the necessary equipment—pots, pans, plates, etc. I have had to go out and buy a few things, though. A few good knives, cutting boards, and mixing spoons make all the difference in the world. Monday, I was able to add the one essential that, as an American, I found incredibly difficult to live without. Yes, I was able to find a set of actual drinking glasses that weren’t smaller than juice tumblers. Before that, I only had a set of tea mugs. I was so thrilled that I didn’t mind having to walk 4 miles back to my house—in 3-inch heels. But more on that in another post.
Back to my apartment…the bedroom/living room is very Russian in character—rich carpets hanging on the walls, a large schrank occupying one entire wall and filled with items of importance. And books. Wonderful, wonderful books. Agatha Christie, Joyce Carol Oates, Truman Capote, Victoria Holt (yes, that author of the Victorian-era tripe, that I loved so much in 7th grade before developing at least some critical faculties). There are shelves and shelves of books, both in Russian and English. Lyudmila (my landlady) has shown me the bookshelves in her apartment and invited me to go over to get books any time I want. My first night here, I sat listening to the rain (the only rain we’ve had since I’ve been here), and reading an Agatha Christie. Absolute bliss. So if you think of me over here in Almaty, picture me enjoying a cup of tea in the evening, a wonderful pastry from one of the many bakeries, and reading a good book on my balcony—occasionally looking up at the mountains and thinking of how fortunate I am to be able to enjoy these simple things.
Calling Almaty
Several people have asked about calling Kazakhstan. It is possible, and fairly inexpensive (about 4-5 cents a minute). If you’d like more information, just let me know! Calls (and emails) are always welcome!
Listserv
A few weeks ago I set up an option that allows people to be automatically notified when there’s an update to the blog—you were supposed to have been sent an invitation so that you can choose whether you want this option. Instead, I (thanks to the inability to think with the worst jet lag I’ve experienced) selected the button that automatically signs people up. Many, many apologies for this error! If you don’t want to get automatic updates, just let me know. The last thing I want to do is to clog people’s inboxes with more superfluous email!
Monday, September 10, 2007
Wine Tasting in Almaty
Kazakh wine tasting is unlike any wine tasting that you might see in the States. It started promptly at noon, with great groups of people waiting anxiously at the gate. Families with small children, grandmothers, people of all ages. Once the event was opened to the public, people immediately ran to tables to get their free samples of wine. They were a young, fresh Kazakh red and white (circa 6 September). Sarah and I thought that the event included the stomping of the grapes. Instead, it was the snatching of the grapes. A wooden cart full of green grapes was brought out and was instantly surrounded by hordes of people grabbing all that they could. It was rather like a Great White feeding frenzy. Amazing. From start to finish, the entire event lasted less than one hour. The goal seemed to be to drink as much (free) alcohol as possible—it reminded me of grad school, in a way. However, in school people would not be giving wine to small children.
Afterwards, we walked back along Gogol Street towards the Zelony Market. Along the way, we passed the Coca Cola Almaty bottling plant, complete with its fleet of Lada’s out in front. Globalization in action! The Cold War ends with the logo of a huge American corporation on the side of the ultimate Soviet era automobile.
Tomorrow will be a quieter day—I’ve been asked to review applications for the Junior Faculty Development Program for the US Embassy in Tashkent, and will be reading these applications tomorrow. They don’t have any Fulbright students/scholars in that country this year due to the political situation, so the applications were passed along to the Consulate in Almaty. It’s a rather daunting task for me, as I am charged with deciding which applications should be considered for the next stage of selection. Only ½ of the applicants will make it to the next round, and the decisions that I make can have substantial influence on the lives of other individuals. As I’ve seen first-hand here in Almaty, having been selected for one of these US-sponsored programs opens many doors that would otherwise remain closed. So, these are not decisions that can be made lightly. So, after breakfast tomorrow I will make a pot of tea and sit at my table looking out over the mountains and begin reading and evaluating the applications. According to the program directives, the focus of the exchange is to send scholars from this region to the US to learn about teaching methods and, upon their return to their native country, apply what they have learned in their own courses and at their university. So, many many thanks to Shannon O’Lear’s teaching seminar. It is helping in ways I never imagined!!
(I'll upload pictures as soon as possible--the connections are rather slow, so some formats need to be changed first)
Afterwards, we walked back along Gogol Street towards the Zelony Market. Along the way, we passed the Coca Cola Almaty bottling plant, complete with its fleet of Lada’s out in front. Globalization in action! The Cold War ends with the logo of a huge American corporation on the side of the ultimate Soviet era automobile.
Tomorrow will be a quieter day—I’ve been asked to review applications for the Junior Faculty Development Program for the US Embassy in Tashkent, and will be reading these applications tomorrow. They don’t have any Fulbright students/scholars in that country this year due to the political situation, so the applications were passed along to the Consulate in Almaty. It’s a rather daunting task for me, as I am charged with deciding which applications should be considered for the next stage of selection. Only ½ of the applicants will make it to the next round, and the decisions that I make can have substantial influence on the lives of other individuals. As I’ve seen first-hand here in Almaty, having been selected for one of these US-sponsored programs opens many doors that would otherwise remain closed. So, these are not decisions that can be made lightly. So, after breakfast tomorrow I will make a pot of tea and sit at my table looking out over the mountains and begin reading and evaluating the applications. According to the program directives, the focus of the exchange is to send scholars from this region to the US to learn about teaching methods and, upon their return to their native country, apply what they have learned in their own courses and at their university. So, many many thanks to Shannon O’Lear’s teaching seminar. It is helping in ways I never imagined!!
(I'll upload pictures as soon as possible--the connections are rather slow, so some formats need to be changed first)
Sunday, September 2, 2007
in Almaty
After a rather long flight (about 30 hours of travel time), I finally made it to Almaty in the very early hours of Thursday morning. The airport was a fascinating experience--fortunately, I was met by someone from the embassy who was able to cut through all of the bureaucratic red tape very quickly (it involved going to the head of a long line, as diplomatic credentials--his, not mine--have priority). Others were not so fortunate, and I hear the wait was about 3 hours for some. By the time luggage was coming off of the plane, there were not enough people to collect theirs and so it was just falling off of the conveyor belt and causing the belt to stop moving. Then there was the traffic...but that is another story entirely!!! Let's just say that in comparison, Massachusetts drivers drive like grandmothers and grandfathers.
On the way into the city, I saw my first melon stand (for those of you unfamiliar with Central Asia, the region is famous for its melons. There's even an atlas of melons, I hear--right, Shannon??). Fruit stands are everywhere, and the produce is abundant and extremely inexpensive. Tomatoes, cucumbers, blackberries, apricots, eggplant, and many that I can't even name. Thus far, I've spent about $5 on food--with the exception of going out to eat one night. That was a comparatively expensive $12 for a wonderful invention called the lula kabob (ground, spiced chicken grilled over an open flame and then served wrapped in a flatbread--just add tomatoes, dill, and a spicy tomato sauce and it's heavenly).
I've figured out the buses, with the help of a fellow Fulbrighter--Sarah. She's been incredibly helpful--letting me stay at her house until I get an apartment, showing me around, and translating quite a bit. My Russian is okay, but I'm still not quite confident in my skills. But..I did get to use some French when speaking with a prospective landlord. She doesn't speak English and my Russian is not good enough yet, but we found a common language.
As to the city--well, it's beautiful in a way that I can't quite describe. It's clearly an oil city, and there is a great deal of money within the city. There are more Audis, BMWs, and Lexus's than I can count. Small loans have resulted in everyone having a (very nice) car. The gas stations are all named after oil companies (small surprise), and there are signs for Kuwait Corporation and others all over the place. Government buildings are tall, elaborate, and quite beautiful.
I've done some exploring thus far, and will post pictures when possible. I slept through Constitution Day (the day I arrived), but have some pictures from later events. And, of course, one of a poster of a favorite movie--Bourne's Ultimatum. No, that' s not a typo. It's how it translates into Russian.
Now it's time to head off to the city center to look at another apartment. And then, it's off to the Turkish baths, and a visit to one of the huge and famous department stores in town (hmm...maybe there will be some Georgian wine there). Tonight, Sarah and I might head up to the television tower (always an attraction in a former Soviet city).
Cris
On the way into the city, I saw my first melon stand (for those of you unfamiliar with Central Asia, the region is famous for its melons. There's even an atlas of melons, I hear--right, Shannon??). Fruit stands are everywhere, and the produce is abundant and extremely inexpensive. Tomatoes, cucumbers, blackberries, apricots, eggplant, and many that I can't even name. Thus far, I've spent about $5 on food--with the exception of going out to eat one night. That was a comparatively expensive $12 for a wonderful invention called the lula kabob (ground, spiced chicken grilled over an open flame and then served wrapped in a flatbread--just add tomatoes, dill, and a spicy tomato sauce and it's heavenly).
I've figured out the buses, with the help of a fellow Fulbrighter--Sarah. She's been incredibly helpful--letting me stay at her house until I get an apartment, showing me around, and translating quite a bit. My Russian is okay, but I'm still not quite confident in my skills. But..I did get to use some French when speaking with a prospective landlord. She doesn't speak English and my Russian is not good enough yet, but we found a common language.
As to the city--well, it's beautiful in a way that I can't quite describe. It's clearly an oil city, and there is a great deal of money within the city. There are more Audis, BMWs, and Lexus's than I can count. Small loans have resulted in everyone having a (very nice) car. The gas stations are all named after oil companies (small surprise), and there are signs for Kuwait Corporation and others all over the place. Government buildings are tall, elaborate, and quite beautiful.
I've done some exploring thus far, and will post pictures when possible. I slept through Constitution Day (the day I arrived), but have some pictures from later events. And, of course, one of a poster of a favorite movie--Bourne's Ultimatum. No, that' s not a typo. It's how it translates into Russian.
Now it's time to head off to the city center to look at another apartment. And then, it's off to the Turkish baths, and a visit to one of the huge and famous department stores in town (hmm...maybe there will be some Georgian wine there). Tonight, Sarah and I might head up to the television tower (always an attraction in a former Soviet city).
Cris
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