Volunteering, and other musings

I’m finding plenty of volunteer opportunities here (something that Fulbright likes us to do and something that I would do regardless). Oddly enough (?) these opportunities all involve teaching. Lyudmila—my landlady—teaches English at the Kazakh-British University right around the corner, and I’m going to be doing some sessions on teaching methodologies this winter. I’ve also met the director of the school of English philology at Ablai Khan University, and will be working with her on some similar training sessions. Then, when I do my fieldwork in other parts of Kazakhstan, I will likely be working with area universities in what are called the “American Corners” (locations where we have Peace Corps volunteers, and small American centers run by the Embassy), I will once again present some seminars and/or lectures on teaching methods. Schools are clamoring for ideas on how to improve how courses are taught, and, even with my limited background on teaching methodologies, I am considered something of an expert (scary thought!).

In addition to teaching and other volunteer work, I have also had the chance to work with our consular office here in Almaty to screen applicants for the Humphrey fellowship. It was very interesting—I gave the Test of English Language Proficiency to the 13 applicants—it was definitely possible to gauge how they would do on the test based upon their behavior during the exam. The test was at a local university, and a consular representative was there to assist me. Afterwards, we were picked up in an official diplomatic vehicle and driven back to the consulate to grade the exams and determine who would proceed to the next stage of the process. I was able to have lunch at the embassy—which sounds much cooler than the actuality. They had plov (essentially the national food of Kazakhstan—rice with carrots, sometimes dried apricots, and roasted lamb or mutton), which is now my new favorite food. I just need to find someone to show me how to make it!!! Afterwards, I walked to the nearby Ramstor (a mall with very chichi stores, a small ice rink where several students were practicing their figure skating—a la Tanya Harding, but without the metal baton for rivals). There’s a huge Turkish grocery store at Ramstor, where I was able to find the glasses I mentioned in an earlier post. The meat counter there was quite an experience—they have many foreigners shopping in the store, so to prevent any confusion they put a picture of the appropriate animal in front of each display case. It’s very helpful—especially if you don’t know the word for horse (which, I’m finding, is very easy to avoid eating—thankfully!).

After leaving Ramstor, I headed over to the bus stop. However, the bus I needed doesn’t run stop there, so I walked to the next stop—or to where I was told the stop was. But there wasn’t a stop there. So…I kept heading north toward the city center, thinking that I could catch a bus at the next stop. Unfortunately, none of the buses that passed by stop in the vicinity of my house. By the time I saw a bus that would take me home, I was nearly on my doorstep. Four miles on uneven sidewalks—avoiding the maniacal Kazakh drivers—in 3-inch heels is not something I would recommend. My calves are still sore.

As to the drivers…well, there are LOTS of cars here in Almaty. But there seem to be no traffic rules. Walking anywhere near the vicinity of a crosswalk will lead to drivers beeping their horn at you, warning you not to even think of crossing in front of them. Of course, the drivers can beep but pedestrians are expected to ignore them and not respond. My inner New Englander is hopelessly offended by this practice, but I try to overcome it by thinking of Kevin Kline’s favorite line in that all-time classic film Fish Called Wanda. And it’s not “don’t call me stupid!!”. After about the 25th time in a 2 mile walk, it gets rather difficult, though.

Well, that’s about it for now. There are many, many more stories to tell, and I will write more when I have the opportunity. Right now, though, I’m going to curl up with a good book and perhaps a second glass of Old Tblisi!